Colourful Crochet Bunting

Bring a bit of summer sunshine into your life with this gloriously colourful crochet bunting....the antidote to those grey winter skies!

If I had a pound for every time I was asked for this pattern whilst in my hut at the Bath Christmas Market (2015) I would be posting this crochet tutorial from Barbados!  As it is I am snugged up in front of the wood burner happy to be fulfilling my promise to post this pattern first thing in 2016!

A big thank you by the way to everyone who came to see me in my hut...it was amazing to see so many lovely faces and I hope to do it all again!

The secret to successful bunting is to use a good quality sturdy cotton.  Cotton yarn gives the bunting a solid weight and shape with no sagging.  My preferred yarn is Rico's creative Cotton aran that comes in a range of 37 shades giving you an incredible choice of colours to play with.  The affordability of this yarn makes it perfect for a project like this as it really depends upon lots of glorious colour!  I have put together a pack of 12 of my favourite colours to get you started and  is available from my shop here.

(Note to all....I am not paid to say this by the way....I genuinely love Rico Cotton!) 

To make this pattern you are going to need at least 4 different colours of yarn but please don't worry if you don't have any cotton as this crochet bunting is the perfect choice for using up all those bits of scrap yarn that we have stashed away.  Try mixing it all up and playing with different weight yarn too.  I've had some great results when I've not been too rigid about following the correct rules of a pattern.  If you would like to make the bunting as I have then you can buy your cotton pack from me here.

For this tutorial (UK crochet terms) I am using Rico Creative Cotton Candy Pink, Light Pistachio, Tangerine and Fuchsia together with a 4mm hook. 

Chain 6 and join with a slip stitch into the first chain (as shown) to make a loop.

Chain 3.  This counts as your first treble crochet.

Work 14 treble crochet into the centre loop.  You now have 15 stitches.  Using a slip stitch, join your work into the third chain as shown.  Cast off this colour.

Join your new colour (pistachio) and chain 3 (this counts as your first treble crochet.

Work 1 treble crochet into the same stitch and then work 1 treble crochet into the next 4 stitches.

Work your first corner as follows:  2 treble crochet, chain 2 and 2 more treble crochet all into the same stitch.

Work 1 treble crochet into each of the next 4 stitches.

Work your second corner (2 treble crochet, chain 2 and 2 treble crochet all into same stitch) followed by 1 treble crochet into next 4 stitches.  This takes you to your 3rd and final corner (which is already half complete!)

Into next stitch work 2 treble crochet and chain 2.  Using a slip stitch join into 3rd chain and cast off this colour.

Join your 3rd colour (tangerine) and work a chain 3.  This counts as your first treble crochet.

Into the next stitch work 1 treble crochet.

Into next stitch work 1 half treble, into next 3 stitches work 1 double crochet into each stitch, into next stitch work 1 half treble and into next stitch work 1 treble crochet.

Into next stitch work a corner as follows: 2 treble crochet, chain 2 and 2 treble crochet all into same stitch.

Work into each of the following stitches as follows: * 1 treble crochet, 1 half treble, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 double crochet, 1 half treble, 1 treble crochet **.  This takes you to the 2nd corner (2 treble crochet, chain 2 and 2 treble crochet all into same hole)  Repeat from * to **

Into next stitch work 2 treble crochet, chain 2 and join into 3rd chain with a slip stitch.  Cast off.

Join your final colour (Fuchsia) and worth chain 2 (this counts as your first halt treble crochet)

Into same hole work 1 half treble crochet.

Work 1 double crochet into each stitch (10 in total) until you reach the next corner.  Work 2 half trebles and chain 2

Work 2 more half trebles into same stitch.  This completes your first corner.

Repeat as above working *1 double crochet into next 10 stitches **, 2 half trebles chain 2 and 2 half trebles into same hole. Repeat * to **

Complete the 3rd and final corner by working 2 half trebles, chain 2 and joining this with a slip stitch to 2nd chain.  Cast off and sew in your tail end.

Now all you need to do is repeat repeat repeat until you have a neat pile of triangles.  

Joining it all together

Using any colour chain 5.

Taking your first triangle and starting in a ch 2 corner space work 1 double crochet, continue with 1 dc  into each stitch along one side starting and ending with the chain 2 corner space. 

ch 2 ( creates a neat space between the next triangle) and repeat with your second triangle.  continue until you have a string of bunting triangles to suit the length you require.

Finish with a ch 5 after the last triangle.

Row 2:

Turn and work 1 dc into each stitch (I like to work row 2 in a different colour but it's up to you!) 

Cast off and display your bunting!

Now all that is left is to add the all important tassels!

Needle Felted Christmas Tree Decorations

Brighten up your christmas with these easy to make colourful needle felted christmas tree decorations.  Fun to do and they make the perfect gift!  Last year I gave these to friends instead of cards and they loved it.

To begin you will need the following:

A Polystyrene ball - any size

A felting needle

A selection of colourful felting wool.

Begin by choosing your your base colour and pull off a length that is long enough to wrap around your polystyrene ball.

Place the felt around the ball and hold it in position whilst you gently push the felting needle into the ball.

With each 'jab' of the needle you are pushing the wool fibres into the ball and after only two or three 'jabs' you can turn the ball upside down and see the felt held in place.

Continue to work around the ball gently jabbing the needle into the polystyrene ball until all the felt is securely held in place.

Cover the remaining areas with felt and work it in using the felting needle.

Keep adding felt to any bald patches and securing it in place with the needle jabbing until the ball is completely covered in an even layer of felt.

Once you have covered the ball all over in the base colour and secured it in place by jabbing it all over for several minutes you are ready to add the swirl.  The more you needle ('jab!) it the smoother the surface so take your time. 

The next step is to decorate the ball with a needle felted swirl.  I've chosen two colours that are my favourite colour combination, hot pink and deep orange....very 'Bollywood'!

I am going to show you how to blend from one colour to another....it's very simple and in doing so you will begin to see how versatile needle felting can be.  It's like painting with wool.  So, to begin, you need to pull a little piece of felt from the main bulk because as you can see, we don't need an awful lot.

Anchor the felt into the ball by 'jabbing' it a few times with the felting needle.

Continue to felt the swirl in the direction you want it to go in.  Don't worry at this point about it being too neat as we will return once it's positioned and go over it all again with the felting needle until it's neat and tidy.  For now we are simply getting it all in place.  A rough sketch if you will!

Try to avoid gripping the felt too tightly as this prevents the fibres from being introduced into the ball when you jab it with the felting needle.

When you are ready to change colours (about mid way around the ball) pull the remaining felt away leaving some wispy bits as in the picture.

Take your second colour (In my case deep orange) and  lay a thin layer of it over the first colour (pink) and needle it into position.

Continue to work the second colour just as you did with the first until you reach the other end of the ball.

Pull  any reming felt away and secure the end in place by needling it in.

Work back round the swirl needling the edges some more to neaten it all up.

Cut a piece of bakers twine roughly 10 cm and tie a knot.

 Push a pin through the knot and secure it into the ball.  

Your needle felted christmas tree decoration is now ready to hang on your tree!

Spiral crochet - the easiest pattern in the crochet world!

If ever there was a crochet pattern to build the beginners confidence and raise a smile then this is it!

This is quite possibly the easiest crochet 'pattern' ever in the world EVER!  And for this reason they make the perfect yarn bomb contribution and are the central focus for the next Bath In Fashion 2016 yarn installation.

To make a spiral you will need any yarn and any hook!

Here I am using Rico Basic Acrylic and I am going to start the first spiral with a 4mm hook which will make quite a compact spiral.  Further along we will see what a spiral looks like when worked with a 5mm hook in the same yarn.  Play and experiment because this is when the magic happens! 

Chain 40 (or 50 or 60 or as many as you like to reach desired length)

Into the second chain from hook work 3 double crochet (US=Single crochet)

Like this! Here I've worked the first 3 DC into the 1st chain.

Repeat this all the way along working 3 double crochet into each chain stitch (here I have worked into 2 chain stitches = 6 double crochet)

By about the 4th chain stitch you will see your work begging to curl like this.  

As your spiral grows and curls it may begin to twist out of shape but this is normal and all you need to do is turn it to keep it all twisting in the same direction. 

When you reach the end of your chain cast off and change to your second yarn colour.

Work 2 double crochet into each stitch from row below.

When you get to the end of the row cast off your yarn and twist your spiral so that it is all going in the same direction.  

For that final finishing touch gently pull both ends to  stretch it out and open up the spiral.

Now let's see what happens when we do the same thing but this time using a 5mm hook and instead of working double crochet let's us half treble crochet throughout.

Same pattern and yarn but different size hook and stitch. 

I think I prefer the one on the right because it's more 'open' but the beauty of this very simple pattern which is based on maths you can experiment and play with all sorts of yarns and hook sizes and get some fabulous results.  Have fun!

Surface Crochet

Surface crochet is an easy way to embellish your crochet turning it into a stunning piece of work. The simplest method to begin with is to work slip stitch on the surface of your crochet piece.  Once you have had a go yourself you will be able to work it on any crochet (or knitted surface) and it can be used as decoration or to hide any untidy accidents!

Begin by placing your hook from front to back and pulling your yarn through leaving a long enough tail on the reverse for you to sew in the ends once it is complete. 

Place your hook into the next stitch hole as indicated here

Pick up your yarn from the back (yarn over) and pull it through.  Then pull it through the stitch on the hook (slip stitch)

This is your first surface crochet slip stitch.

Now repeat the process again moving to the next space as indicated, hook in from front to back, yarn over, pull it through to the front and then pull it through the stitch on the hook.

As you continue along you will see your surface crochet begin to take shape.

Once you have reached the end (or the beginning) cut your yarn (leave a tail long enough to thread a needle to sew in the ends)

Now place your hook under both parts of the first stitch you made and yarn over to pull it through.

Like this!  Pull it all the way through.

Now bring your hook up through the hole in the last stitch you made from the back to the front and pull your yarn through to the back.  

This gives you a perfect 'invisible' join.

Now turn your work and sew in your ends to secure them.

The Invisible Join or 'Needle Join'

I want to show you how to perfect your crochet with this simple and quick technique that gives perfect invisible results every time.

Despite it's name (as coined by serendipity) no needle is required and this is by far the best way of joining your work.  Don't be put off by thinking this is complicated as it's really very easy and once you've done it a few times it will become second nature and you will never  look back!

All terms are UK crochet so here's a conversion chart from simply crochet magazine that outlines all the stitches for UK and US.  Stitches are the same we just call them by different names.

To begin we have made a simple crochet circle by working 2dc (which counts as your first treble) and 11 treble into a magic loop.

Now normally at this point we join our circle with a slip stitch into the top of the chain 2 but not this time!

Cut your yarn and pull it all the way through.

Place your hook through the first stitch from the back to the front

Yarn over and hook it through the stitch so that it is pulled from the front to the back

Like this....

Give it a gentle pull to pull your (half completed) stitch together.  

Nearly there, just one last thing to do....

Next we are going to place our hook into the back loop only of the last treble stitch we made.

Like this.  From back to front.

Yarn over

Pull the tail end yarn all the way through.

And there you have it.  A perfect crochet stitch ready to be worked into for the following round.

Crochet Roses

My passion for yarn bombing began in 2014 when I was asked by Bath in Fashion to create a display for their event.  From this small beginning a great yarn bomb was born with thousands of crochet roses cascading down the colonnades of Bath city centre.  This was made possible by the wonderful army of women that came together to work on the project and from the hundreds of roses that were sent to me from all the country.

Many of the roses were created from this pattern which was inspired by Attic 24 with the additional twist of an extra row to create a rose with 2 colours.  It's simple and quick and once you've made one you will want to make a bouquet!

All terms are UK and I am using a 4mm hook with Rico Essentials Cotton for this tutorial as their colours are divine and the stitches show up beautifully.

CH = Chain.  Yarn over pull it through stitch on hook

SS = Slip Stich.  Hook into stitch, yarn over, pull it through everything.

DC = Double Crochet.  Hook into stitch, yarn over, pull it through stitch (2 stitches on hook) yarn over, pull it through both stitches.

HTR = Half treble. Yarn over, hook into stitch, yarn over, pull it back through stitch (3 stitches on hook), yarn over, pull it through all three stitches.

TR = Treble.  Yarn over, hook into stitch, yarn over, pull it back through stitch (3 stitches on hook), yarn over and pull it through 2 stitches, yarn over and pull it through both stitches. 

Begin by working CH 26

Into the second chain stitch from your hook work 1 DC

Continue all the way along working 1 DC into each stitch = 24 stitches.

CH 3 

Turn your work and into the stitch as indicated by the needle work 4 TR

Into the next stitch as indicated by the needle work 1 SS and pull it tight.

This completes your first large petal. 

Into the next stitch work 5 TR, slip stitch into the next stitch.  (you now have 2 large petals) Repeat this 3 more times to make 5 large petals.  Notice how your work is beginning to curl.  This is meant to happen!

Into your next stitch work 5 HTR followed by a SS into the next stitch.  Repeat this 3 more times and you have made 4 medium petals.

Into the next stitch work 5 DC followed by a SS into the next stitch.  Repeat 2 more times and you have made 3 small petals.

Cut your yarn and fasten off.  Now  join in your new colour with a CH 2

Turn your work and work 2 DC into the next stitch. 

 Repeat working 2 DC into each of the petal stitches.

You will have worked 2 DC into each of the 5 petal stitches (10 DC in total).  Work 1 SS into the same SS from the row below.

Repeat this process all the way along the top of your rose working 2 DC into every petal stitch followed by a SS into the SS from the row below.  Cut your yarn leaving a 20 cm tail end and cast of your work.

And now for the 'reveal'! Starting with the smallest petals in the middle carefully wind your rose around the smallest petals ending with the large ones on the outside edge.  This can be a bit of a fiddle to begin with but you will soon get the hang of it

Carefully turn your rose over and thread your needle with the long tail end.  Sew the back of the rose together making sure it is completely secure.  It doesn't need to be neat because you won't see this bit, it's just making sure your rose stays in shape.

And there you have it!  Anyone who knows me won't be the least bit surprised that I have chosen a deep orange and hot pink combination as it's my absolute favourite!

Now all you need do is continue making roses to adorn and decorate your home, clothing, bags and furnishings...the world is your oyster!  Try experimenting with different types of yarns to see the many ways you can vary this simple pattern to make a bouquet of beautiful roses.

Crochet Baskets

I am having a love affair with these baskets!  They are so easy to make and the creative possibilities are endless once you start mixing different yarns.  The trick when making them is to keep your tension as tight as possible.  Working with cotton yarns helps them keep their shape as it doesn't have the springiness of wool and for that extra bit of texture try adding some re-spun sari silk or novelty yarns.

To begin you are going to need some cotton yarn.  I'm using Rico Cotton DK as their colours are divine and the all their yarns are very reasonably priced so these baskets are an affordable addition to any crochet home!

Working with 2 strands at once to make one larger strand allows you to mix the colours and create beautiful blends.  I recommend starting with 2 strands and once you have the hang of it (it's very easy) you can go up a few hook sizes and work with 3, 4 or even 5 strands.  There aren't really any hard and fast rules as to hook size and yarn strands but I've written a rough guide to get you started.

I am using UK crochet terms of this universal pattern.

Ch = Chain 

DC = Double Crochet

sl st = Slip Stitch

2 strands of yarn = 6mm hook 

3 strands of yarn = 7mm hook

4 or 5 strands = 8 or 9mm hook

Keep your tension as tight as possible.  If you think it's a bit loose try dropping down a hook size.

Every round will increase by 6 evenly spaced stitches until we have 6 rounds = 36 stitches

Do not count the Ch1 at the beginning of each round as a stitch.

To Begin:

Holding 2 strands of yarn to make one strand and with a 6mm hook (or smaller if need be) chain 6 and make a loop by joining with a sl st into 1st chain.  (Just like we do at the beginning of the granny square)

Round 1:

 Ch 1 (this does not count as a DC)

Work 6 DC into the loop and join with a Sl St into the 1st Ch 1 you made at the beginning.

Round 2:

Ch 1 and work 2 DC into each stitch from row below = 12 stitches.  

Join into that first ch1 with a sl st.

Round 3:

Ch 1.  *Work 2 DC into next stitch, 1 dc into next stitch*  repeat 5 more times = 18 stitches and then join into first ch1 with a sl st.

Round 4:

Ch1. *Work 2 DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch* = 24 stitches and then join into first ch1 with a sl st.

Round 5:

Ch1. *Work 2DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch, 1DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch* repeat 5 more times = 30 stitches and then join into first ch1 with a sl st

Round 6:

Ch1. *Work 2DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch, 1DC into next stitch, 1 DC into next stitch, 1 Dc into next stitch* repeat 5 more times = 36 stitches and then join into first ch1 with a sl st

Notice how it is beginning to look like a hexagon.  This is because every increase (2DC into same stitch) happens n the same place as the row below.

Now for the fun bit.  No more counting!  

Ch 1 and  work 1 DC into each stitch = 36 DC and join with a sl st into 1st stitch of round. 

To start next round Ch1 and then 1DC into next 36 stitches. Repeat this process and watch as your basket begins to grow.  

After several rounds the sides of your basket will begin to ‘curl up’.  This is because you are no longer increasing with every round.

Turn your basket inside out (the right way round!) and continue.

Once you are confident with all of this try changing one of the yarns to a different colour.  The easiest way to do this is to cut the yarn of one of the colours and join your new colour by tying the ends together with a firm knot. 

Keep the 'tail' ends long and work them into the crochet as you go and you won't see the knot.

Continue crocheting around as before changing colours to your hearts content.

To finish:

Work to the end of a round and join with a  sl st as before.  Cut your yarn leaving a tail about 5 cm and ch1. Pull your yarn all the way through to secure as a knot.  Sew in your tail end. Now all you need to do is decide how best to display your beautiful crochet basket!

Let's Learn Moss Stitch

This has to be one of the easiest crochet stitches and yet its beauty and texture is just divine.  If you can work a  double crochet stitch (single crochet in US terms) you are going to LOVE this!

By incorporating different yarns and playing with the pattern you can create some stunning effects.   But before we start going off piste, lets learn the basic Moss Stitch!

I am using uk terms and Sirdar DK Cotton for this tutorial  because it gives great definition for you to be able to see the stitches and follow the pattern.

You will need at least 2 different coloured yarns (or more - you can use as many colours as you like) 

Begin with chain 50.  Turn your work

Into the 4th chain from the hook work 1 double crochet

We are practicing a new stitch so the size of your sample doesn't matter but the purposes of this tutorial I have started with a foundation chain of 50 stitches

Chain 1, skip a stitch from the foundation row below and into the next stitch work 1 double crochet

Repeat to the end = 23 dc

Join new colour and chain 2 before turning your work.

Into chain 1 space from row below work 1 dc, 

Continue to the end working chain 1 then 1 dc into next chain 1 space from row below.

Into chain 1 space from row below work 1 dc, then chain 1 then 1 dc into next chain 1 space from row below.

Repeat to the end.

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This is moss stitch at it's simplest

Once you have mastered the basics of moss stitch have a go at playing with it.

This moss stitch variation starts with a row of half trebles worked into a foundation chain using Noro yarn followed by a row of Rowan tweed working 1 double crochet, chain2, 1 double crochet ....repeat to the end of the row

Into the chain 2 space from the row below work 2 half trebles.  Repeat all the way to the end

Chain 2 then 1 dc into next chain 1 space from row below. Repeat to the end of the row.